Protecting your plants from the cold

Being prepared isn't pretty...

Ideally, a post about frost protection should come before we have our first freezing temperatures of the season, but better late than never, right?  This year, I was determined not to be scrambling for old sheets at the last minute, covering "the lucky ones" by flashlight.  Preparation for the first freeze was meticulous and time consuming, but now I'm ready for anything this winter throws at me!

Unfortunately, this means that most of my potted plants are crowded together in one small nook of the patio, and others are getting leggy in the house; but we all know that the most practical choices aren't always the sexiest.  Regardless of how the yard looks in winter, effectively protecting plants from freezing will ensure that they still look attractive in spring.

I call this "The stairway to heaven",
because the plant on top is pretty hard to reach...

I live in a warmer pocket of Tucson, but I grow a lot of tender plants and succulents in containers, so my first chore in preparing for the mercury to drop is to group my potted plants according to their protection needs.  Since I don't have a greenhouse, my wimpiest plants come inside the house for the winter.  If you plan to do the same, you'll want to locate them in a non-drafty spot that receives bright light without getting direct sun through the window.  Mine go on a spiral stand in a west-facing window with a light shade to block direct afternoon sun.  It's easy to overwater in the winter, especially with plants that are accustomed to being outdoors, so check for moisture before watering, and only water when the top inch of soil is dry.  I tend to water every 10-14 days, unless a droopy plant tells me otherwise.  Sometimes, plants can get fussy and drop some leaves when they're moved.  Check the spot's draftiness and temperature and make sure you're watering correctly.  The plant will likely put on new growth when it gets moved back to its regular spot.

This group gets covered when the temperatures
drop below 45 F.

I group the remaining tender plants in the warmest nook of my patio, so it's easier to throw a frost cloth over them when they need it.  Areas that are protected from winds will typically stay warmer, and walls or covered patios can help to reflect some heat in the day and retain some through the night.  The sunniest spot of the patio or yard is often the warmest, but be careful to protect your plants from sunburn if you move them from a shady home to a sunnier one for the winter.  Again, check plants for moisture before watering so that you don't over-do it.

Frost cloth is porous and lightweight

 Now, it's time to talk covers!  Frost cloth is the best choice, but there are other things you can use in a pinch; newspaper, cardboard, wood, burlap, sheets, buckets, plastic bottles cut in half...the list goes on.  Frost cloth is best because it's lightweight and doesn't absorb water, so it still works in the rain or (dare I say it...) snow.




 


Sheets, cardboard and burlap don't insulate as well when they're wet, and they can become heavy when soaked with water.  Plastic can be used with a frame to make a mini greenhouse over a plant (I've seen this done very elegantly with a lawn chair and a mulch bag), but don't use plastic to drape over the plant like you would a sheet, or you'll get some frozen/burned leaves.

This poor Manfreda got burned when a dark colored
frost cloth was left on in the full sun. 
Don't worry though, it'll recover!

Covers work by trapping radiant heat from the ground, so make sure that whatever cover you use touches the ground all around the plant to trap the heat inside.  When using frost cloth or sheets, I like to have some clothes pins and a few big rocks or bricks handy to hold the covers in place.  If you're covering something that will be in direct morning sun, it's a good idea to pick a light color, or you might have some burned leaves by the time you uncover the plant (especially if you tend to sleep in on cold, wintry mornings, like some people I know...).


On the subject of uncovering, it's best if you do this chore daily.  It's OK to leave plants covered for a couple of days if freezing temperatures are expected, but they'll be a lot happier if you allow them some fresh air and sunlight in the daytime when temperatures are warmer.  Since covering works by trapping heat, it helps to let the ground around the plant soak up as much sunlight as possible throughout the day.

Celebrations C9 Light set at Acehardware.com

If radiant heat from the ground isn't enough, or if you're trying to protect something too large or tall to completely cover (such as a citrus tree), a string of old-school fluorescent Christmas lights can help generate some extra warmth that can be trapped under whatever cover you have.  LED lights are much easier to find, but they don't generate nearly as much heat.  I've seen some other "clever" heat generators do the job (garden lighting directed at the plant, flashlights hanging from branches), but fluorescent Christmas lights seem like the safest, most effective, and most festive option to me.


Lastly, I'd like to note that a thirsty plant will be damaged from the cold much faster and easier than one that is well-hydrated.  Try to check on moisture levels a day or so before a freeze is expected; it's best if a plant isn't too soggy or completely dry when the temperature drops.  Check out my next blog post for some geeky science behind how and why thirsty plants freeze faster than well-hydrated ones.

Here are some of my artsy photo extras from this post:

Philodendron hederaceum (aka Philodendron scandens)

I can't wait for this guy to grow up.  He lives on one of the lowest stairs,
where he's easy to see and reach.

Mr. Chomps lives near the bottom shelf, too.

Living Christmas Trees Need a Little Love

In December's Tucson Happenings article, I talked about the differences between the types of living holiday trees you can buy, and how to care for these trees while they're in your home.  However, there wasn't enough room for details about what to expect from these trees once they're installed in the ground.

So, here's that list of trees again with a few more photos and some details!  Keep in mind that this list isn't all-inclusive, there are many more trees or shrubs that could serve well as a holiday tree and look great in the garden afterwards.  These are just some of my personal favorites.  What trees or shrubs would you add to the list?

Doedar Cedar (Cedrus deodara) - This one is on the list for its smell and shape, though in the container it might look more like Charlie Brown's tree than some others on the list.  It's also one of the more frost sensitive trees on the list, but it's hardy to 5 F.  Mature trees are drought and heat tolerant.
Mature Height:  around 40-50 feet in Tucson, much taller in its native habitat and warm climates
Mature Width:  20-30 feet

Arizona Cypress at the University of Arizona

 

Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica) - This tree should be easy to find at local nurseries, but probably won't be displayed with the holiday trees.  I think it has the right shape, though, and it makes a great screen or windbreak once it's in the landscape.  It may not be exactly what you think of when you imagine a holiday tree, but it gets extra super cool points for being native!
Mature Height:  40-50 feet
Mature Width:  20-30 feet

I'd love to show a photo of this tree's beautiful bark,
but, alas, you're going to have to google it...
(I don't seem to have a bark photo
on hand, but it's worth looking up!)

 
Alligator Juniper (Juniperus deppeana) - This is another Charlie Brown favorite that won't be displayed with the holiday trees.  In fact, there are probably only a few nurseries in town who carry it, but I had to add it to my list because I feel compelled to promote cool native plants whenever I can.  Named for its distinctive bark, this drought-tolerant evergreen makes a big impression and needs plenty of room to grow, but will take its sweet time getting there.
Mature Height: 20-50 feet
Mature Width:  20-50 feet








 
Pinion Pine (Pinus edulis) - This is the smallest tree on the list.  It doesn't enjoy the heat at lower elevations, so I'm recommending it only for those in the cooler microclimates of Tucson and surrounding areas.  The seeds are edible and delicious!
Mature Height:  20-30 feet
Mature Width:  15-25 feet

Eldarica pine at the University of Arizona

Eldarica Pine (Pinus eldarica) - Probably the most commonly found living tree for the holiday market in Tucson.  The large mature canopy of this evergreen stays a bit more narrow than the other pine we commonly see around the Old Pueblo (Aleppo pine, or Pinus halepensis).

Mature Height:  30-50 feet
Mature Width:  15-30 feet

I bet you'll never guess where this photo of Aleppo Pine was taken...

Aleppo Pine (Pinus halepensis) - Another evergreen that grows well here; the cloud-like canopy should be a very familiar sight to Tucsonans.  It gives great shade, but needs a lot of space.
Mature Height:  30-60 feet
Mature Width:  20-40 feet

Italian Stone Pine keeps its pyramidal shape
as it matures, but will eventually thin out at the
bottom and become wider on top.

Italian Stone Pine (Pinus pinea) - This one works great as a holiday tree, even in smaller sizes.  The branches are numerous and full, and new needles on the branch tips are a beautiful blue-green color.  The nuts are edible.
Mature Height:  30-50 feet in Tucson
Mature Width:  30-40 feet

Ponderosa pine on top of Mt. Lemmon

Ponderosa Pine (Pinus ponderosa) - I love the long, shaggy needles on this guy.  Ponderosa pine likes higher elevations, so I wouldn't try planting one unless you're in one of those cooler microclimates.  This tree grows quickly under the right conditions and can grow quite large.  Its furrowed red bark and picturesque form get more beautiful as it ages.
Mature Height:  50-80 feet (probably on the smaller side in Tucson)
Mature Width:  20-30 feet

Japanese black pine is a non-conformist;
it rarely grows with a straight trunk
and evenly spaced branches.

 
Japanese Black Pine (Pinus thunbergii) - This pine gets big in its natural habitat but stays on the smaller side of its size range here in Tucson, and is often pruned to be kept even smaller (there are some nice photos of bonsai specimens out there on the internet).  It grows slowly, takes well to pruning, and tolerates Tucson's weather conditions, so long as it has adequate drainage.  Because of its naturally twisted form, this is the tree to pick if you're really going for a Charlie Brown Christmas!
Mature Height:  20-50 feet in Tucson
Mature Width:  20-40 feet

The perfect little Christmas tree growing on Mt. Lemmon

Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) - This species is often for sale as fresh cut or living trees, and it's easy to see why!  In their youth, they're naturally shaped like perfect little holiday trees, with perfect branch spacing and strength for ornaments.  However, they do better at higher elevations and in cooler microclimates.
Mature Height:  40 - 80 feet (much taller in cooler climates)
Mature Width:  20 - 30 feet

Upright rosemary growing in containers at the nursery

Upright or Trailing Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) - Upright rosemary is more commonly seen sheared into table-top holiday trees, but trailing rosemary can be given the holiday treatment as well.  This aromatic shrub doesn't mind being pruned, and does well in containers with excellent drainage.  The upright form tends to have a more savory flavor for cooking, while the trailing varieties are often more useful for medicinal or cosmetic purposes.
Mature Height:  1-6 feet (depending on cultivar)
Mature Width:  3-6 feet (depending on cultivar)